This review of the Milan and Paris Spring/Summer 2016 Ready to Wear shows may be coming to you nearly a month after the last model strutted down the runway in Paris but think of it like those French fries you find at the bottom of the In N Out bag (or White Castle bag depending on which coast you reside)…a surprise bonus. An unexpected treat. Better late than never, I bring you my favorite collections from the last two cities that round up fashion month. It was worth the wait, if I do say so myself.
Milan September 23-29
Alessando Michele was given the role of creative director early this year succeeding Frida Giannini and Patrizio di Marco and in this humble writer’s opinion, he is killing it. Feminine and very Italian, Michele designed a collection that paid homage to the house’s aesthetic while making it his own at the same time. Sequined mini dresses, pussy bow blouses, T strap platform sandals, and models in oversized glasses á la Robert De Niro in Casino, the looks had a definite 70’s, cool/nerd girl vibe. And can we talk about the green lace dress in the opening look? Swoon.
Consuelo Castiglioni sent 38 delightfully oversized and layered looks down the runway that somehow managed to look shapeless in a cool way. Sort of a crazy-homeless-lady-wearing-everything-she-owns feel…if said crazy lady could afford $3200 for a coat. Bright and colorful with a few looks in a resort-y leaf print all make me want to pile the layers on. I’m kind of dying over the look in the black skirt below.
Founded in 1968 as an Italian textile house, the family run business now with Veronica Etro as creative director of womenswear (her brother, Kean, oversees the menswear collections) continues to present us with lovely silhouettes using luxe fabrics with great prints. This collection was romantic and kind of boho which I normally don’t care for but found myself lusting after as I scrolled through look after gorgeous look. I imagine this collection is what Daenerys Stormborn of the House Targaryen, the First of Her Name, the Unburnt, Queen of Meereen, Queen of the Andals and the Rhoynar and the First Men, Khaleesi of the Great Grass Sea, Breaker of Chains and Mother of Dragons would wear if she lived in Milano in 2015 (what up to all my Game of Thrones freaks).
Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce broke my heart when they announced that they were no longer boyfriends earlier this year. At least they managed to not let the split impact their ability to make ah-mazing clothes together. Their Spring/Summer 2016 collection was an ode to Italy. Dresses reading “Italia is Love” and depicting the leaning tower of Pisa demonstrated how much they adore their native country. A fun and playful show where the models paused on the runway to snap selfies, I could have filled this page with pic after pic of looks, each one more adorable than the last. Instead please just take a moment and have a look yourself. You’re welcome in advance.
Paris September 29-October 7
I mean, who is cooler than Hedi Slimane? Well, maybe Olivier Rousteing but we’ll get to him in a minute. Again reminding us that the 90’s are back in a big way, this collection was grunge meets glam and most of the looks were very wearable. The models sashayed down the runway with tiaras wore low on the brow in mini dresses and faux fur coats. Outfits consisting of basics like a camel trench, white tank and denim somehow made me hate my own camel trench, white tanks and denim and feel strongly that I need the same pieces but by Saint Laurent. Who knew that wellies go with everything? Slimane did, that’s who. You better believe that I will find a place to sport a glitter mini dress and camo jacket come Spring. Sharply cut blazers and black slip dresses rounded out this homage to the decade that brought us Friends and Courtney Love. Yes, please.
Karl Lagerfeld is a freaking genius. Continuing the tradition of staging unconventional runway shows (recall his Fall 2014 Ready to Wear show where he created a high fashion supermarché and his Fall 2015 Couture casino show), The Chanel airport terminal Lagerfeld created in the Grand Palais did not disappoint. “It’s the idea of how it should look!” he joked. Given my aversion to the flip-flop, you won’t be surprised to learn that I despair at the fact that people seem to find it appropriate to wear pajamas to travel. I want to live in the world where people wear Chanel to the airport. The models all toted rolling suitcases and we saw plenty of classic Chanel matching sets and 70’s inspired wide leg suits. Oh, and the dopest loafers ever.
Nicolas Ghesquière has been at LV since early 2014 and his 2016 Spring/Summer collection is being called his most audacious yet for LV. Moto and leather military jackets, metal-embroidered skirts, laser-cut leathers and spaceship-print pants paired with flatform sandals and loafers aren’t exactly wildly bold in my opinion but the entire collection was pretty fabulous nonetheless.
First of all, Olivier Rousteing is adorable (hello, cheekbones). Additionally, he designs spectacular clothes (watch how fast his collection with H&M sells out this Thursday). Camel, chocolate and ivory suede paired with strappy bright green sandals and floor length tiered ruffled skirts. Oh, and Joan Smalls wearing a fierce green mini dress and my lady crush Kendall Jenner slaying it in a white cutout mini. He wins.
Another collection that made me want clothes that are not my usual jam, Clare Waight Keller channeled the 90’s and presented a cool juxtaposition of peasant skirts and tanks, mini dresses with strappy flats and lingerie inspired dresses. And if there was ever a track suit that I would give my blessing to wear in public, it’s this one.